Itinerary for a Southern Ionian Charter
Suggested 7 day Southern Ionian charter from Levkas.
This is a level 1 sailing area
Day 1
Lefkas to Vathy
Lefkas is the perfect place to shop for your cruise. Although the shops are small they stock everything you need at sensible prices and you can push everything back to the boat in the trolley so long as you have a willing crew member to return it. Walk up the high street for locally grown fruit and vegetables and then cross the road to the cake shop for traditional pastries. Be sure to leave some items to be bought locally though or you will spoil the fun!
Baklava - sweet honey pastries
From Lefkas it is an easy 2 hour sail to Vathy on the island of Meganisi. Take care as you motor down the channel out of Lefkas as it has been known for a yacht to run aground. Once out of the channel set sail for the private island of Skorpios, the island retreat of the Onassis family. You can anchor on the eastern side of the island for lunch and swim ashore so long as you venture no further than the high water mark. The water is beautifully clear and it is no wonder that Aristotle and Jackie Onassis fell in love with this island where they married and where Aristotal, his son and daughter are buried.
Setting a straight course for Vathy will take you directly over rocks that are occasionally marked so check your charts to ensure you give them a wide berth. In Vathy you have the option of berthing stern to on the harbour wall or at George’s Taverna before you reach the town. Which ever spot you choose, be sure to take a morning walk around the village, try to spot the sea plane lying submerged on the eastern side of the harbour and enjoy coffee in one of the waterside cafes.
Papa Nicolis Cave
Day 2
Vathy to Frikas
Leaving Vathy you can turn right and visit one of the three deep inlets for a morning swim or if you are eager to get sailing turn right past the pretty hill top village of Spartakhori. You can anchor in the bay or tie up on the quay for a climb up the hill to the village where the view is well worth the effort.
After Spartkhori follow the western coast of Meganisi making time to take a look at the cave of Papa Nicolis where, according to stories a Greek submarine was hidden during the second world war. You can get in quite close to the cave but it is too deep too anchor so leave someone on board while you take the dinghy in to have a look around.
Frikes
There is still some distance to go before reaching the island of Ithaca where the tiny harbour of Frikes is tucked away in a large bay on the northern shore. In Frikes, the windmills on the rocky bluffs above the village are proof of the wind which tends to funnel down from the slopes above the village. Berth inside the harbour wall by the ferry dock rather than the northern side of the harbour where we saw yachts being thrown violently against the wall when a swell built up within the harbour. There are several waterside tavernas, Kiki’s general store with a good range of supplies and fresh bread delivered daily.
Day 3
Frikas to Efimia
From Frikes sail down the eastern side of of the island and imagine an Ithaca as described in Homer’s Odyssey. Be prepared for a brisk sail as the island can be quite windy in the summer. There are several anchorages suitable for lunchtime stops although when we were there they all presented a tricky lee shore situation that we decided to give a miss. Instead we made full use of the wind which is usually rather light or on the nose. After rounding the tip of Ithaca cross to the Island of Cephalonia, Efimia can be found on the northern side of a large bay. Louis de Bernieres Captain Corelli’s Mandolin was set in Cephalonia and much of the subsequent was filmed in nearby Sami, this is the perfect spot to read the book.
Fiskardho
There are some excellent tavernas along the harbour, ask for Lamb Kleftico and you won’t be disappointed.
Day 4
Efimia to Fiskado
It is only a short sail from Efimia to Fiskado but it is worth getting in early to secure a spot. This is the only place on Cephalonia to escape damage from the 1953 earthquake which destroyed 90% of the buildings on the island and therefore remains picture perfect. It is a popular spot with tourist both on and off the water and the narrow harbour side is busy and excellent for people watching. Catch up with your e-mails at one of the pavement cafes overlooking the yachts and fishing boats or take a walk along the coastal path.
The approach to Fiscado is dominated by the ruined Venetian lighthouse high up on the headland just beneath the newer one erected as its modern replacement. You can see gaps in the round tower where the oil fire would have guided sailors and kept them safely away from the rocky shore.
Day 5
Fiskado to Sivota
Sivota on the south east of the island of Lefdkas is a deep sheltered bay, perfect for sheltering if the occasional summer blow is forecast. It can get quite busy so don’t leave it too late or you will have to anchor which can be tricky as there is a lot of weed. There are plenty of tavernas lining the harbour but you will be rewarded by taking a walk along the picturesque sea front before making up your mind where to eat.
Sivota
Day 6
Sivota to Nydri
Many people avoid the busy town of Nydri but we enjoyed mooring stern to on the town quay and being a tourist for a day or so. The town itself is not particularly pretty but the small shops are full of interesting things for sale as well as the usual touristy tat. A walk along the beach, a swim and an aperitif in one of the bars lining the shore will be a perfect way to spend an afternoon. Finish off your day with a meal at one of the waterfront tavernas, we had a splendid meal in the ‘Ionion’ for a lot less than one of the more central eateries.
The Ionion Tavarna, Nydri
Day 7
Nydri to Lefkas
It is only a short hop from Nydri back to Levkas so if you missed Spartakhori on the way down then stop here for lunch before heading back. Alternatively take another swim at Skorpios and enjoy a lazy afternoon with a book before a last sail back to base.